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This wiki info has been copied from slickdeals,

https://slickdeals.net/f/13798283-motile-14-laptop-ryzen-5-full-hd-256-gb-hd-8gb-ram-299?from_da_id=80950537&sdxt01=2020-01-14+17%3A22%3A51&sdxt07=0&utm_source=dealalerts&utm_medium=email&utm_term=13798283&utm_content=7196368&utm_campaign=80950537&p=134265542&src=da_si_v2_80950537#post134265542

Laptop can sleep if headphones or a magnet is on top of bottom right corner!

THAT’S ALL MOBILE DEVICES. THAT’S HOW SLEEP MODE WORKS
VIDEO PROOF! https://imgur.com/a/mDLTgPg #defcon

Video Proof: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECPSC_1jHE8
Hopefully this post helps you prevent future crashes / sleep issues.

Attached is a picture of location of magnetic item that causes laptop to sleep.

Customer service contact details:

Support number: 1-877-435-7955
Support email: support@MEwarrantyservices.com

I called and sent email and the information does not exist.

The correct phone number for support is (800) 379-3820. Hours are 7 am-4 pm Pacific Time. They are closed on the weekends.
Update: Just called customer service on Jan 10th. The above number (even though it announces as Overpowered customer service) is valid for Motile laptops and the rep confirmed that the warranty for M142 is valid for 1 year and you just call this number for any issues.

I called Walmart today: (800) 966-6546 and the rep arranged for me to exchange my M-142, the screen goes blank intermittently. She was unable to find a Motile support number.

Warranty Information:
Excerpts from Motile Limited Warranty booklet included in box:
“This MOTILE purchased and delivered new in the original packaging to the original purchaser is warranted for personal non-commercial use by MOTILE against manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for a limited Warranty period of Ninety (90) days for labor and One (1) year for Hardware from the original date of purchase.”
“However, the warranty on this Product is limited to Ninety (90) day hardware and labor limited warranty when purchased or used for commercial purposes.”
“Product freight must be prepaid by the original purchaser and shipped in its original packaging or packaging affording an equal degree of protection.”

## USER MANUAL ATTACHED AT BOTTOM ##

Bios, Software and Driver Update:
http://www.motilecustomerservice.com/

Additional driver files saved by a user from device manager: https://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=131944567&postcount=195 .
This seems to have additional stuffs that is not included on Motile site

To enter the BIOS, keep pressing the DELETE key during the boot up

Bios update hints: (Be careful. Don’t attempt unless you REALLY know what you are doing)
*Also note that some issues are appearing with the BIOS/EC update*:
https://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=133422332&postcount=740

BIOS update guide:
https://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=133337630&postcount=495
https://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=133339559&postcount=504

If having problem with the laptop hanging while restart and not completing the restart sequence (especially after a clean window installation),
turn off fast restart in control panel/power option/system settings

Indepth outside review: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Wal…260.0.html

Currently the laptop has no support for waking up from sleep by lid opening. You have to press a key to wake it up. Closing the lid will put it to sleep though.

The HDMI port on the laptop has been verified by multiple people as HDMI 2.0 good for 4K 60hz.

USB Type C port on this Motile has been tested and only has data transfer function. NO power delivery (PD) for charging over usb C port.
NO DP function for video output via the usb C.

Display: IPS

Chassis: aluminum/magnesium

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3500U

SINGLE dimm slot with 8GB 2400 DDR4 sodimm installed. 2GB of the ram is used by Vega iGPU (amount of ram dedicated to iGPU cannot be changed)

Two M2 SSD slots: first slot comes occupied with Biwin 256GB M2 SATA SSD and can use both M2 SATA and NVME.
Second unoccupied M2 slot recognizes only NVME ssd.

Fn+ F5 changes between Basic mode and Silent mode fan speed.
This does have a small difference on multicore cpu benchmarks.
Maybe also battery life when on battery?
Also you can tell which mode you are in by looking at the led light on the power button: solid is basic mode, slow dimming /brightening is silent mode.

FIX FOR LOW SOUND OUTPUT FROM SPEAKERS:

1) Be sure the Sound Blaster Connect application is running.
### The Sound Blaster Connect Software can be downloaded from the Windows Store, as well as other places. #### https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p…verviewtab
2) Select a sound profile (Game/Music/Movie, etc)
3) and make sure the EQ is turned on.
Makes a night and day difference

FUNCTION KEY REMAPPING:
To reverse FN keys to skip having to hold down FN + FKey:
https://keytweak.en.softonic.com/

My Mapping:
Key #120 remapped to ‘Volume Down’ – Default to ‘F9’
Key #121 remapped to ‘Volume Up’ – Default to ‘F10’
Key #119 remapped to ‘Mute’ – Default to ‘F8’
Key #129 remapped to ‘F10’ – Default to ‘Volume Up’
Key #131 remapped to ‘F9’ – Default to ‘Volume Down’
Key #133 remapped to ‘F8’ – Default to ‘Mute’

GAME TESTING:
on battery power:
Diablo 3 ROS (1920×1080, high settings for all): 45+ FPS
WoW Classic in intense battle like Alterac Valley, low settings, FPS fluctuates between 40-80

LINUX DISTROS TESTED:
Ubuntu 19.10 – everything works
Zorin OS 15 – Needed to apt update/upgrade to get latest kernel to support Ryzen 5 3500U graphics.
(Installs with support only for 800×600, update fixed everything)
Linux Mint 19.2 – Everything works. Updated to latest Kernel to support Ryzen 5 3500U graphics

THX Color Profile:
Here are all the color profile files off my Motile M142 R5
https://drive.google.com/open?id=…TpAaO9lp_P
or
https://www.4shared.com/zip/GWMDk…files.html
Restart laptop after placing files in C:\Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color
then right click on desktop -> Display settings -> Color Profile drop down and select Tuned by THX

INCREASE DISPLAY BRIGHTNESS:
To increase the display’s max brightness download Radeon Software [amd.com], open the new software, navigate to Settings > Display and disable Vari-Bright. The display will now be ~50% brighter.(Many owners report no difference).

VIDEO ON RAM, SSD, WIFI UPGRADE:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iITc_8IBPK0

USB-C power adapters

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product…CFDA&psc=1

Several members have reported success in using USB C PD to barrel adapters to charge. There are a number to choose from on Amazon, Aliexpress, and eBay.

Here are adapters reported working:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33036838470.html
https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-Ad…07SJ4CB27/

This post can be edited by most users to provide up-to-date information about developments of this thread based on user responses, and user findings. Feel free to add, change or remove information shown here as it becomes available. This includes new coupons, rebates, ideas, thread summary, and similar items.

If your computer’s waking up from sleep without any intervention from you, it’s likely another program or device is waking it up. Here’s how to find out what woke it up last.

We’ve shown you how to find out what’s keeping your computer from going to sleep, but if your computer keeps waking up after you put it to sleep, there’s a similar solution.

For Windows: If your computer is waking up regularly, finding the culprit can be tough—but finding the most recent wake cause is a good place to start. To do that, go to Start > Programs > Accessories, right-click on Command Prompt, and open it as an administrator. Then type:

The output will tell you what woke up your computer last, which—if you didn’t initiate it yourself—is probably your culprit.

Sometimes, unfortunately, it doesn’t give you quite enough information to deduce the problem, so you have to look elsewhere. Often, it’s a result of a “wake timer,” which can be a program, scheduled task, or other item that’s set to wake up your computer when it runs. You can disable wake timers in Windows’ Power Options. You may also find that your mouse or keyboard is waking up your computer even when you don’t touch them. For full instructions on how to dig deeper and fix these problems, check out this article at the How-To Geek.

For Mac: If you want to find out what woke up your Mac at a specific time, you can usually find it logged int he Console app. Just head to /Applications/Utilities, open up Console, and search for:

You should get a list of the last few wakes, and the reasons they were triggered.

Windows Setup, the Windows installation tool, unfortunately doesn’t provide any graphical tools for shrinking or expanding an UEFI System Partition (ESP; sometimes EFISYS). You can still create a custom-sized ESP by side-stepping out of Windows Setup and into the Command Line for a minute to partition the disk to your liking. I’ll walk you through the process in this tutorial.

This tutorial assumes you’re working with an empty disk, and that your computer is UEFI compliant. You may need to delete any existing partitions on the drive before proceeding. You can’t rely on this tutorial to grow the UEFI System Partition (ESP) on an existing installation as any attempt would be blocked by your existing partition boundaries. Windows won’t let you recreate an UEFI system outside the Windows Setup installation program. You should follow this tutorial during the initial Windows installation process with Windows Setup.

You are responsible for any data loss and to ensure that you have adequate backups of your own data. Unplug disks you don’t intend to use during the installation to avoid data loss. This is your only warning.

So you’ve booted up into Windows Setup from your installation media, and you’ve selected to perform a Custom installation. Whether you’re planning to and preparing to dual-boot with Linuxor just want to provide a larger margin of error; you may have noticed that the default 105-or-273 MB (100-or-260 MiB) partition for the UEFI System Partition is a tad small. (The default ESP size depends on your disks physical sector size.)

You need to decide what size you want your UEFI System Partition to be before you begin. You can take a pause here to read How large should you make your UEFI System Partition? before your proceed as it will be quite challenging to attempt to change the size you allocate to your ESP after you’ve installed the system without reinstalling.advertisement

Once you’ve decided on the approperiate size for your computer and needs, then you can follow the these steps to proceed. The tutorial begins from the first step of the Custom installation screen in Windows Setup (screenshot of this screen at the end of the article):

  1. Select your installation target and make sure it has no partitions (except unallocated space)
  2. Click the New and then the Apply button.

You should now have four partitions: Recovery, System (ESP), MSR, and Primary.

  1. Select each of the System, MSR, and Primary partitions in turn and click the Delete button to delete these partitions. Leave the Recovery partition in place.
  2. Press Shift+F10 to open the Command Prompt
  3. Type diskpart.exe and press Enter to open the disk partitioning tool
  4. Type list disk and press Enter to list out your disks
  5. Type select disk n where n is the number for the disk you want to install to as identified by the above command and press Enter
  6. Type create partition efi size=550 where 550 is the desired size of the ESP in Mebibytes (MiB), and press Enter
  7. Type format quick fs=fat32 label=System and press Enter to format the ESP
  8. Type exit and press Enter to exit the disk partitioning tool
  9. Type exit and press Enter again to exit the Command Prompt

You should now be back in the graphical Windows Setup partitioning tool where nothing has changed since the last time you looked at it.

  1. Click the Refresh button to detect your partition changes

You should now have a disk with a default Windows Recovery tools partition, a 500 MiB UEFI System Partition, and some unallocated space for your Windows installation.

  1. Select the unallocated space from the disk list and click the New button to automatically recreate the MSR and System partition in the remaining space

The final result should look something like this:

Screenshot of a 550 MiB ESP in Windows Setup

That should be all. From here, you can continue with your Windows installation as normal. If you should run into problems with the system not booting after completing this tutorial, then please refer to your systems manufacturer documentation for any special hardware requirements regarding UEFI boot and the UEFI System Partition in particular. Some older hardware models required non-standard FAT16-formatted ESPs, or had special partitioning size requirements. You should be able to adjust the steps in the tutorial to accommodate such requirements.

I made the jump today to Windows 10 and like many other legacy (mobility) card users the support isn’t there (yet), besides the drivers which are automatically installed by Windows. Therefore, I thought I’d make a quick guide of how I got the legacy drivers installed on my laptop and have the Catalyst Control Center up and running. They are basically the same steps which I had to do with Windows 8/8.1 previously.

 

Drivers installed with this guide: Legacy

Windows version: Windows 10 Pro x64

Laptop: Dell Studio 1555

 

I suppose the following steps should also work for graphics card considered legacy now for desktops. However, do note that I applied these steps for my laptop which has a re-branded ATI Mobility Radeon HD 4650 (HD 5650).

 

 

Here are the steps:

 

1: Download the legacy driver for your system (legacy drivers link provided above) and run the installer but close it after it unpacked all the installation files to C:\AMD.

2: Open Device Manager.

3: Under Display adapters right click on the adapter used in your system and click Update Driver Software.

4: Click on the second option Browse my computer for driver software.

5: Click Let me pick from a list of device… in the next menu and Have Disk… on the following.

6: Click Browse on the pop-up menu and go to: C:\AMD\AMD_Catalyst_13.4_Legacy_Beta_Vista_Win7_Win8\Packages\Drivers\Display\W86A_INF.

7: Select the first .inf file – In my case this was: C7156445.inf – and click open.

8: Select the model from the list that corresponds to your hardware – there were two of the same in my case so I just clicked the first – and click Next. Afterwards the driver should install accompanied with several screen flickers.

9. Now re-run the legacy driver installer from AMD and have it install the Catalyst Control Center.

10. Restart the computer if you’d like.

 

This got it to work on my system and allows me to use CCC on Windows 10 with a Legacy (mobility) card.

 

I attached two screenshots below, one of CCC and another of the Device Manager, to show which drivers are installed now on my system. It is important to note that the Driver Version installed according to the device manager is 8.970.100.0 – in my case – which is different from the version installed automatically by Windows 10 would have the following numbers: 8.970.100.9001. I have no knowledge of if the drivers provided by Windows 10 are better or just the latest legacy beta drivers with a new signature for Windows 10.

I hope this helps some people along using older hardware but wanting to update to Windows 10.

This will work for sure. Just don’t be scared by the number of screen flicks that you will encounter.

 

Have fun! 🙂